Etosha National Park Safari

ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK SAFARI
By Jo Clark

ON BIG BLEND RADIO: Travel writer and photographer Jo Clark shares her wildlife experience in Etosha National Park in Namibia, Southwest Africa. Watch here in the YouTube player or download the episode on Podbean.

A three-week trip to Namibia, Africa, with Focused Escapes, ended at Etosha National Park. Etosha means “great white area” and refers to the largest salt pan in Africa—you can spot it on a satellite map. Salt is an essential nutrient; and it attracts many animals, making them easy to see since vegetation growth is sparse.

Etosha National Park is in the northwest corner of Namibia. It was proclaimed a park in 1907 and is home to four of the “Big 5” on everyone’s safari checklist: lions, leopards, rhinoceros, and elephants. It lacks only African buffalo. It has incredible game sightings all year round.

ANIMALS OF ETOSHA
Etosha is Namibia’s largest wildlife sanctuary. Abundant wildlife attracts photographers, who will see lions, elephants, giraffes, cheetahs, two different zebras, hyenas, springboks, elands, Black and White rhinos, and the elusive leopard—so elusive that we didn’t see a single one—the only disappointment of my trip.

Black and White rhinos are pretty interesting. You’d think they’d be alike except for their coloration, but the name is misleading. Both are grey, albeit a bit lighter in the case of the White rhinoceros. I remember them like the cowboys in old westerns. White hats were the good guys and black hats…not so much. For the rhinos, it is a similar story. White rhinos are grazers with extremely poor eyesight. They tend to ignore all but the most blatant threats and keep eating. Getting a picture of one with its head raised wasn’t easy.

Both are African natives with a stocky build and horns on their heads. However, White rhinos are much larger, and an adult can weigh up to 5,071 pounds, making them the second-largest land mammal. Only elephants are larger. On the other hand, Black rhinos generally top out close to 2,200. However, the smaller size helps the Black rhinos sprint faster, at about 35 mph, and the larger White rhino runs about 30 mph.

Their heads’ shapes are also different, making them easier to tell apart at a distance. White rhinos have longer, wider faces with a longer front and shorter second horns. On the other hand, Black rhinos have a shorter front horn, but their second horn is slightly longer, making the two horns appear similar in length. The front horns can be tall and thin, frequently broken off to a shorter length.

But the Black rhinos also differ in another way—they’re the “You talkin’ to ME??” of the savannah. From the moment they spot your safari vehicle, these Dirty Harrys are on full alert. If a White rhino is disturbed, it moves away. But a startled Black rhino is more likely to charge. One sneeze can bring them charging your way. Are you thinking to yourself, they sound like they have a terrible temper? You’d be correct.

PHOTOGRAPHER TOUR GUIDE
Fortunately, we were traveling with Sean Braine, a well-known nature photographer (and the son of an even bigger name in the bush, Steve Braine, a Ranger at Skeleton Coast National Park). Sean is quick to credit his father with his career path as a safari guide: “I grew up in the bush with a walking encyclopedia as a father…”

I say Sean knows all and tells all. He has a wealth of information and doesn’t mind sharing it with his Naturalist Collection groups. Sean knew how to maneuver our vehicle for the best photography and the safest vantage point. He also cautioned us when not to talk, calling attention to our presence.

Sean’s knowledge of birds, insects, reptiles, and animals was a constant source of amazement. His keen eye could spot a reptile scooting into a hole in the sand at what seemed like a mile away. We’d be bouncing down a dirt road, and he’d exclaim, “Did you see that?” as he jammed on the brakes. We’d pile out to “see,” and sure enough, he’d have another exciting critter in his hand in just a second. We’d all get our photos, and then Sean would put the reptile safely back into its hole.

SAFARI CAMPS
Etosha National Park is a dream world for any photographer or nature lover. Six safari camps are inside the park, and several are just outside the park gates. Most lodges have private decks to make observing wildlife easy.

Onguma Bush Camp
While on safari, we enjoyed a stay in an old-world safari-style bush camp, Onguma Bush Camp, adjacent to Etosha National Park’s eastern border. Etosha has over 5.4 million acres of land, while Onguma has more than 84,000 acres. Combining the two makes it difficult to imagine a better place for game viewing.

The Bush Camp has 18 rooms, three of which have lofts, ideal for families with children. The lounge and dining room overlook the camp’s waterhole, so you can observe animals while you enjoy a leisurely sundowner and stay put for your evening meal. During dinner, we were thrilled to watch zebras come to drink.

Our dinner was a feast for the eyes and taste buds. We were served a winter salad of avocado, eggs, and citrus. This was followed by grilled Namibian Beef Sirloin with mushroom sauce or a pan-fried Kingklip (fish), along with roasted sweet potatoes, sautéed zucchini, and mini carrots. The dessert was a Strawberry Yogurt Mousse.

The camp also has the Onkolo Hide, putting you at eye level with the animals who come to the newly enlarged waterhole to drink. What an experience that would be—and I missed it. This means a return trip to Etosha.

Mushara Bush Camp
We spent our last two nights at the Mushara Bush Camp, just a few miles from Etosha. The cabins were part cabin and part glamping-style tent, but they were oh, so cozy. And the staff was delightful and efficient. While we enjoyed wine by the fire pit and then dinner, the staff slipped covered hot water bottles into our beds (June is the start of winter temperatures in Namibia). By the time we turned in, those beds were quite toasty.

One night’s dinner was fresh and sophisticated. We started with Butternut Orange and Ginger Soup. Then, we were served Pan-seared Hake (a sweet white fish similar to Cod) coated in an herb marinade, couscous, and vegetables. The dessert was a sublime chocolate mousse layered with yellow cake and served with Berry Sauce.

The second night’s meal started with crostini and various Mediterranean-flavored toppings, Springbok fillet with pepper and mustard butter, potato croquettes, and vegetables. The phyllo pastry, filled with apples, cinnamon, and custard, drizzled with caramel sauce and nuts, ensured sweet dreams of a return trip for our last night in Etosha.

PLAN YOUR ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK ADVENTURE:
– Focused Escapes: https://www.focusedescapes.com/
– Etosha National Park: https://etoshanationalpark.co.za/
– The Naturalist Collection: https://www.thenaturalistcollection.com/

Jo Clark is a travel writer and photographer based on South Carolina’s Grand Strand. She has a thirst for knowledge, history, great food, and wine! She does her very best to live up to her podcast title and Instagram handle, “Jo Goes Everywhere!” Follow her there and on her Facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/HaveGlassWillTravel/. She is the editor of http://www.RecipesTravelCulture.com

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