Vicksburg National Military Park and Beyond

VICKSBURG NATIONAL MILITARY PARK & BEYOND: WHAT TO SEE, DO & EAT IN MISSISSIPPI’S HISTORIC CITY 
By Susan Lanier-Graham

Nestled along the Mississippi River, Vicksburg is a city where history breathes from the bricks and cobblestones, where stories linger in grand old mansions, and where Southern hospitality is a way of life. My recent stay in this historic city, with its Civil War echoes and vibrant local culture reminded me that some destinations give you a chance to step back in time.

Anchuca Historic Mansion: A Stay Steeped in Southern Elegance
My journey began at Anchuca Historic Mansion and Inn, a stunning antebellum home built in the 1830s. Anchuca means “happy home” in Choctaw, and it’s a fitting name. The home survived the Siege of Vicksburg and has been lovingly restored into one of Mississippi’s premier bed and breakfast inns.

I stayed in the Coach House, tucked behind the main residence, but next time I’ll request a room inside the mansion itself for a more immersive experience. With ten beautifully appointed guest rooms, lush gardens, and a pool perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration, Anchuca is a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city’s historic district.

Mornings begin with a Southern-style breakfast, and evenings are best spent lingering over dinner at Café Anchuca, where I savored exceptional shrimp and grits in the cozy library. If you go, request a seat in that charming nook—it’s like dining in a bygone era. Before you turn in for the night, check out the lovely macarons created by the inn’s owner, Anna Kate Andrews.

Walking Through Time in Vicksburg’s Mansions
To understand Vicksburg, you have to walk through its past—literally. The city’s Civil War-era mansions are more than architectural marvels; they are storytellers. The owners realize this unique opportunity and you can book home tours throughout town.

At the Duff Green Mansion, the elegance is palpable, with period antiques, crystal chandeliers, and tales that span wartime hospital care to genteel Southern gatherings. I didn’t have a chance to stay or experience the breakfast guests rave about, but the tour gave me a peek into Vicksburg’s history before, during, and after the Civil War.

Oak Hall Bed and Breakfast offered an intriguing contrast. Its Mission Revival architecture creates a casual sophistication that appeals to modern travelers while still honoring the city’s heritage. Inside, you’ll find eclectic furnishings and a more contemporary place to stay while exploring the town.

The Inn at Cedar Grove, initially built in 1840, was the most romantic of the homes I visited. With expansive gardens and a sweeping balcony overlooking the Mississippi River, it’s easy to picture a bygone era of mint juleps and moonlit dances. I dined here one evening, enjoying a drink at the quaint bar before heading up to the rooftop to watch the sun dip below the horizon. Afterward, I made my way to The Chandelier Bar & Lounge, where I savored some unique options, including the scrumptious Tuzi-Stuffed Mushrooms, roasted pork tenderloin with a Cognac peppercorn sauce, and bread pudding for dessert.

A Culinary Tour of Vicksburg
Vicksburg’s food scene offers a taste of tradition with a side of surprise. I was charmed by The Tomato Place, an eclectic roadside gem that’s equal parts market, café, and community gathering spot. What began as a simple fruit stand has grown into a beloved destination featured on national television. The funky atmosphere and Southern fare make it a must-stop. Everyone raved about the Po’Boys, but I couldn’t resist the signature Fried Green Tomato BLT. With my sandwich and a glass of iced tea, I sat in a corner of the little roadside shack and chatted with the locals stopping in for lunch.

For lunch another day, Walnut Hills served up what might be the best fried chicken I’ve ever tasted (except for my mom’s fried chicken, which I’ve been unable to find better anywhere yet—that could be a challenge!). Miss Herdcine Williams—chef extraordinaire and local legend—has been carrying on her mother’s cooking legacy for 30 years. Owner Joyce Clingan has a prize in Miss Williams. I had the lunch special, which included chicken, rolls, a delicious slaw, and traditional Southern macaroni and cheese. Every bite felt like an embrace from Miss Williams.

The Haunted, the Artistic, and the Unexpected
No visit to Vicksburg is complete without uncovering its many layers. I took a night tour of the McRaven House, known as the “Time Capsule of the South.” Each addition to the home reflects a different era—from the late 18th to mid-19th centuries—and the ghost stories whispered along its shadowy halls add a thrilling chill. Ghosts still roam the rooms and grounds at McRaven House, and I might have felt a chill or two during my tour.

I also explored a range of small museums that each offer a unique glimpse into Vicksburg’s spirit:

• The Catfish Row Museum celebrates the city’s rich African American heritage.
• The Old Courthouse Museum holds centuries of memorabilia under its imposing dome.
• The Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum is where Coca-Cola was first bottled in 1894.
• The Attic Gallery, with its quirky mix of Southern folk art and contemporary pieces, felt like stepping into the soul of the city’s creative heartbeat.

I took an afternoon walk to see the Vicksburg Riverfront Murals — 32 striking panels lining the flood wall—which bring the city’s vibrant history to life through art.

Vicksburg National Military Park: Hallowed Ground
The emotional heart of Vicksburg is the Vicksburg National Military Park. I had the privilege of exploring the park with private guide Michael Logue, whose passion for history brought the battlefields to life in vivid, sometimes heart-wrenching detail. If you go, it’s worth booking one of the private guided tours.

Vicksburg was the site of one of the most decisive campaigns of the Civil War. The siege lasted 47 grueling days and ended on July 4, 1863, when Confederate forces surrendered, giving the Union control of the Mississippi River and splitting the South in two. President Lincoln called Vicksburg “the key” to victory.

Today, the park spans about 1,800 acres and is one of the best-preserved battlefields in the country. A 16-mile tour road winds past over 1,300 monuments and markers, reconstructed trenches, and even the restored USS Cairo, an ironclad Union gunboat pulled from the Yazoo River a century after it sank.

Standing among the rolling hills and solemn memorials, I felt the gravity of what happened here, not just military strategy, but the personal stories of soldiers, families, and a nation at war with itself. The park isn’t just for history buffs; it’s a place of reflection, reverence, and understanding.

Vicksburg’s Lasting Impression
Vicksburg surprised me. It’s a city that invites you to slow down, to look closely, and to listen. Its architecture preserves the grandeur of its past, but its present is vibrant, welcoming, and alive with culture.

Whether tracing Civil War history, savoring Southern cuisine, or shopping for boutique finds, Vicksburg delivers. It reminds us that some of the most meaningful travel doesn’t come from checking off a list, but from connecting with people, places, and the past.

Links to Plan Your Visit:

Anchuca Historic Mansion and Inn: https://anchuca.com/

The Inn at Cedar Grove: https://www.cedargrovemansion.com/

Vicksburg National Military Park: https://www.nps.gov/vick/


Susan Lanier-Graham is an experienced journalist, editor, and storyteller with a passion for purposeful travel and meaningful connection. She is the publisher and founder of WanderWithWonder.com, managing editor of an Arizona lifestyle publication, and an editor and contributor to Newsweek. Susan and her husband live full-time in their fifth-wheel trailer, exploring the US in search of great stories. Over the course of her career, Susan has authored hundreds of articles for both print and digital outlets. She is also the author of more than 75 books. Susan’s writing explores the intersection of place, culture, and personal experience—always grounded in authenticity and a desire to inspire. Whether covering luxury destinations or uncovering hidden local gems, she seeks out the best “wow moments.” Follow her journeys and discover curated travel stories at wanderwithwonder.com.

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