A Celestial Journey in Cape Breton National Park, Nova Scotia

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STARS ON THE PLATEAU: A CELESTIAL JOURNEY IN CAPE BRETON NATIONAL PARK, NOVA SCOTIA
By MaryRose Denton

As dusk settled upon the forest road leading up to Paquette Lake, we pulled up to the Mica Hill trailhead and eagerly awaited the arrival of our guides, Darcy and Emily. Stepping out of the car, we watched the sun slip behind the trees, even though the official sunset time was still over an hour away.

The sound of tires on crushed gravel broke the silence as Darcy and Emily pulled up in their Parks Canada vehicles. We gathered, introduced ourselves, and prepared for our night hike by looking over the map.

 


A Journey Through the Forest
The Mica Hill trail, a distinctive feature of the park, offers a journey as you gradually climb through Acadian mixed forest. Parks Canada interpreter Darcy has carefully crafted a “layered” experience, guiding participants through the canopy to the stars, exploring and appreciating the various ecosystems along the way.

A Wetland Wonderland
Our adventure began with a quick visit to Paquette Lake.  As the sun began its descent casting long shadows across the water, we paused for a few moments, listening to the soothing sounds of frogs, and watched a few ducks glide across the surface of the water. A pristine moment.

A Hike Through the Forest
Continuing up the very well-maintained path, our conversation with Darcy turned to native vegetation and tree identification. On the west coast, where we live, big firs, cedars, and maples commonly create a dense forest. Walking along the Mica trail we encountered some fir, but mostly sugar maple with the occasional cluster of white birch.

Darcy shared fascinating insights into the park’s ecology as the trail opened up into a wind-swept highlands plateau of more shrubs than trees, or what is known as the taiga forest. And the view! We could see for miles across a panoramic view looking down valleys and across to the dramatic Aspy Fault.

A Breathtaking Sunset
It was here the sky held an unobstructed viewing of that evening’s sunset. Stopping at the first of two viewing platforms, we were treated to some stunning color. Although partially obscured by clouds, the sun still put on a spectacular display as it dipped behind the horizon, lighting it in hues of pink and gold.  Now we waited for the night sky to darken.

A Celestial Spectacle
A short walk led us to the second viewing platform, where we settled in atop a hillside and looked skyward. Darcy pulled a book out of his backpack titled Muin and the Seven Bird Hunters by Lillian Marshall and Murdena Marshall.

As he began to tell the story of the four stars that compose Muin ( -the native Mi’kmaw word for bear ) and how they double as part of the Big Dipper, we wrapped ourselves in warm blankets and prepared to listen.

Muin and the stars composing the constellation tell a tale that shifts across the night sky during the season and tells a story about astronomy, life, and how the Big Dipper came into existence.


Listening to him recount this ancient Indigenous tale of the Mi’kmaw people did more than pass the time; it also connected us with the unceded land the park now sits on and with an oral tradition passed on through generations. It proved a highly effective way to engage with our surroundings as we waited for the sky to darken and the first stars to appear.

Sitting next to me on the platform, was my adult daughter. Gazing up at the night sky while someone tells you a story stirs a sense of wonder and awe in your soul. Even though my daughter is grown, I could see this interactive experience appealing to all ages.

Waiting for Darkness
As the minutes ticked by, we chatted and waited for the sky to grow dark enough to reveal the stars. A woodpecker talked out a rhythm on a faraway tree while a few chickadees bade each other goodnight.

As the shadows gave way to darkness the temperature dropped quickly enough, even though it was mid-summer. We desperately wished we had some hot chocolate to keep the very biting cold chill away. Wrapping up like a blanket burrito would have to suffice.

A Magical Ending
Finally, the first stars began to twinkle in the sky. “I see one,” I said followed by Emily soon after as the stars appeared throughout the sky. Keeping our gaze skyward, we became transfixed as the clouds dissipated enough for us to marvel at the vastness of the universe.

Rummaging in his backpack once more, Darcy produced a laser pointer and proceeded to point it at the night sky. Following the beam of green light with our eyes we spotted the North Star, the stars from our story of Muin and the Seven Bird hunters otherwise known as the Big Dipper, and then continued over in the sky to The Little Dipper.

Pondering the mysteries of the universe long enough we gathered up our belongings, blew on our cold hands, and proceeded to walk back down the trail in the dark.

As we made our way back down the trail, we listened to the sounds of the woods. An owl hooted in a call and response. Nearing the trailhead where we began, we rounded a corner and there in the branches of the firs and maples we spotted fireflies. First flashing on and then off as if the stars themselves had landed in the tree. This was my first time seeing fireflies, as we don’t have them on the west coast.  A truly magical ending to our night sky adventure “ where a world of wonder awaits under the starlit cover of night.”

The Mica Hill Trail is a 4.9-mile return hike through varying ecosystems. It is open from mid-May to mid-October inside the Cape Breton National Park.

The Stars on the Plateau night sky adventure takes visitors to the trail crest where two viewing platforms are located. This program is offered by Parks Canada on Fridays from late June to mid-October. Duration is 2.5-3 hours. Dress warmly for the weather and consider bringing a hot beverage.

Learn more about Cape Breton National Park at https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ns/cbreton

MaryRose Denton is a travel writer and blogger from the Pacific Northwest. She applies the philosophy of “meraki” to her writing as much as she did to her thirty-year career as a massage therapist.  Meraki is a Greek word best translated as a labor of love. In other words, being so passionate about something, you pour your very soul into it. For MaryRose that is travel. She focuses primarily on agriculture, history, culture, sustainability and vegan/vegetarian travel. She has traveled throughout the U.S., Canada, and into Western Europe, growing her bucket list each year. She is excited to keep adding those off-the-beaten-path adventures both at home and abroad. Home is in the beautiful Pacific Northwest, where she resides between mountains and water. Her love for sailing these waters takes her, and her partner, to destinations all along the Salish Sea, including the San Juan and Gulf Islands of Washington State and British Columbia. When not fulfilling her wanderlust, she enjoys an evening home with her partner, a good book, and a warm cup of tea. MaryRose is a lifelong vegetarian and proud mom of two, amazing grown children, who accompany her on adventures when they can. Follow her stories at https://merakitravels.org/

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