EXPLORING THE PRESIDIO, SAN FRANCISCO’S BEST-KEPT SECRET
By Joelle Machia “Wanderers Compass”
For years, I explored San Francisco, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, and wandering iconic neighborhoods, but somehow, the Presidio kept slipping through the cracks. It was right there, just minutes from the heart of the city, yet I always thought, “I’ll get to it next time.” When I finally made the time, I realized just how much I had been missing. Blending coastal beauty, military history, and peaceful green spaces, the Presidio is one of the most rewarding and surprising places in San Francisco.
Spanning 1,500 acres beside the Golden Gate Bridge, the Presidio, a national park site in the Golden Gate Recreation Area, is unlike any other national park in the U.S. From the moment I arrived, it was clear this place was special. The crashing waves, towering eucalyptus trees, and panoramic views quickly made it one of my favorite spots in the city. It’s a place that feels both vast and personal, filled with stories, reflection, and moments of quiet wonder.
A Historic Military Post Turned National Treasure
Long before it became a park, the Presidio was a place of power and protection. It’s the ancestral land of the Ohlone people and was established by Spanish settlers in 1776 as a military fort to guard their claim on the West Coast. Over time, it shifted to Mexican control and finally to the United States after the Mexican-American War. It soon became one of the first permanent U.S. Army posts in California.
For more than two centuries, the Presidio remained a key military outpost. Its five forts, Fort Point, Fort Winfield Scott, Fort Baker, Fort Miley, and Fort Cronkhite, formed the backbone of coastal defense for San Francisco Bay. Soldiers lived here, and families built lives. The buildings, many still standing today, are a testament to that long-standing presence.
During World War II, the Presidio played a more sobering role. It became the headquarters of the Western Defense Command, where General John L. DeWitt signed orders that led to the forced removal of over 120,000 Japanese Americans under Executive Order 9066. Though not an internment site itself, the Presidio was the epicenter of that tragic decision. Exhibits throughout the park now reflect on this dark chapter, reminding visitors of the injustices born from wartime fear and racial prejudice.
Later, during the Vietnam War, wounded soldiers, primarily burn victims, were flown directly to the Presidio’s Crissy Field and treated at Letterman Army Hospital. That hospital has since been repurposed, but the stories remain.
A New Chapter: Becoming a Park in the National Park Service
In 1994, after more than 200 years of military use, the Army closed its last base at the Presidio. What could have become a lost relic was instead reborn as one of America’s most extraordinary parks within the National Park Service.
Thanks to the creation of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and the work of the Presidio Trust (formed in 1996), the land was preserved, restored, and transformed into a public treasure. The result is a rare fusion of preserved history and wild beauty, just minutes from downtown San Francisco.
Today, the Presidio is home to 3,000 residents, 200 organizations, and a growing number of visitors, over 10 million annually. It’s also one of the most biologically diverse national park sites in the country.
Start at the Main Post
Begin your visit at the Main Post, the heart of the Presidio. Stop by the Presidio Visitor Center, where Park Rangers offer valuable insights and maps.
The Main Post includes the Presidio Officers’ Club, which houses compelling exhibits about the park’s military past and transformation. Once a gathering place for military brass, it’s now one of the oldest buildings on the Presidio, dating to 1776.
Out on the Parade Grounds, kids play, couples picnic and history lingers in the architecture around you. It’s a vibrant, walkable space that feels like both a historic site and a community gathering place.
TOP 14 THINGS TO DO IN THE PRESIDIO
1. Fort Point
Located right under the Golden Gate Bridge, this 19th-century brick fort once defended the Bay against naval attacks. Today, it offers dramatic views, fascinating exhibits, and a sense of awe as waves crash below the soaring bridge.
2. Batteries to Bluffs Trail
One of the park’s most scenic hikes, this coastal trail winds past historic gun batteries and through windswept bluffs. The views of the Pacific and Golden Gate Bridge are breathtaking, especially at golden hour.
3. Golden Gate Overlook
This popular vista point is perfect for a classic bridge photo. It’s also a great place to take a breather, watch ships sail into the bay, or just soak in the stunning scenery.
4. Tunnel Tops
Built over former highway tunnels, this newly developed park space features picnic lawns, native gardens, and panoramic viewpoints. It’s a great place to relax, with playgrounds and food trucks nearby.
5. Crissy Field & Field Station
Once a military airstrip, Crissy Field is now a wide-open waterfront perfect for walks, flying kites, or enjoying the beach. The adjacent Outpost playground and interactive Field Station make it a favorite for families.
6. Inspiration Point
Tucked near the Arguello Gate, this overlook provides sweeping views of Angel Island, Alcatraz, and the Bay. It’s one of those spots that locals love—and visitors should seek out.
7. Wood Line by Andy Goldsworthy
This peaceful art installation curves through a eucalyptus grove like a hidden path. Goldsworthy’s use of natural materials creates a quiet, contemplative experience.
8. Baker Beach
A bit more secluded, Baker Beach offers fantastic views of the bridge, especially at sunset. It’s a local favorite for beach walks and photography.
9. Walt Disney Family Museum
This hidden gem tells the story of Walt Disney’s life and legacy through interactive exhibits and rare memorabilia. It’s perfect for all ages and a fascinating look into American pop culture.
10. Presidio Golf Course
This 18-hole public course weaves through cypress trees and scenic hills. It’s beautiful, challenging, and surprisingly peaceful for an urban course.
11. San Francisco National Cemetery
More than 30,000 veterans are buried here. It’s a deeply moving place to visit and reflect on the sacrifices made throughout America’s military history.
12. Forest Trails
Get lost (in the best way) in the Presidio’s forested trails. Tall eucalyptus and Monterey pines create a green escape from the city, perfect for walking, jogging, or birdwatching.
13. Presidio Officers’ Club
Explore rotating exhibits about the Presidio’s role across centuries—from Native American history to U.S. military campaigns. There’s even a fireplace rumored to date back to the original Spanish outpost.
Relax in the Gardens
From East Beach’s picnic areas to the restored Lobos Valley Overlook, the Presidio is full of green spaces to pause and enjoy nature. Bring a blanket, a book, or just your thoughts.
DINING IN THE PRESIDIO
Tucked near the Main Parade Grounds, Dalida is one of the Presidio’s culinary crown jewels. Created by Sayat and Laura, a husband-and-wife team, this modern Mediterranean restaurant captures the warmth, boldness, and depth of Eastern Mediterranean and North African cuisine while elevating it with refined presentation and a California sensibility.
I started with a spread selection that showcased the region’s spices, from silky hummus topped with pomegranate molasses to a smoky eggplant dip that lingered on the palate. The lamb chops, wrapped in caul fat, were melt-in-your-mouth tender, served with a glossy jus reduction. The dish felt celebratory yet grounded, rich without being heavy.
What struck me most was how Dalida balances tradition with creativity. The textures, spices, and flavor profiles honored the origins of each dish while bringing something new to the table. The ambiance was sophisticated but approachable, and the service was as warm as the dishes. Dalida isn’t just a great meal, it’s a memorable experience that lingers long after the last bite. If you’re visiting the Presidio, this place is a must, but reservations are a must.
Other Options
- Colibrí Mexican Bistro: Vibrant flavors and a festive setting near the Visitor Center.
- Café RX: Great for a quick breakfast or lunch.
- The Walt Disney Museum Café: Light bites and coffee in a cozy setting.
- Starbucks and golf course dining: For something more familiar.
- Food trucks: Often found near Tunnel Tops or Main Post on weekends.
WHERE TO STAY
The Lodge at the Presidio – The Lodge is my top pick. Housed in a former military barracks, it combines understated luxury with unbeatable views of the Golden Gate Bridge. The rooms are spacious and serene, with clean lines and natural tones that echo the beauty outside. Wide windows frame the Presidio’s natural beauty and the bay beyond.
What sets it apart is how it blends history with sustainability. This LEED-certified hotel offers modern comfort, nightly wine receptions, and cozy outdoor fire pits where you can relax with a glass of California wine. Its location near the Main Post makes it perfect for accessing trails, attractions, and scenic overlooks. If you want your Presidio to feel immersive and indulgent, this is the place.
Inn at the Presidio – Just a short walk from the Lodge, the Inn offers a more historic, boutique-style experience. Once officers’ quarters, the building retains its early 20th-century charm. Think of fireplaces, original woodwork, and porches with rocking chairs. The rooms, most of which are suites, have an elegant, residential feel that’s both inviting and homey.
Breakfast is served in a cozy dining room, and the nightly wine and cheese hour is a welcome treat. The Inn is a wonderful choice for travelers who love heritage hotels or want to feel wrapped in the Presidio’s story.
Rob Hill Campground
Open April to October, this campground sits high on the western bluff, offering four group sites with sweeping Pacific views. It’s peaceful, affordable, and great for connecting with nature. Amenities include picnic tables, grills, and indoor restrooms.
FINAL THOUGHTS: DON’T MISS THE PRESIDIO!
The Presidio is one of San Francisco’s greatest treasures, yet it’s often overlooked. Its proximity to the city makes it a perfect day trip or weekend getaway, while its depth of history, nature, and culture make it worth far more than a passing visit.
If you’re heading to San Francisco, don’t skip it this time. The Presidio is waiting.
IF YOU GO
Location: Just west of downtown San Francisco, at the southern end of the Golden Gate Bridge
Getting There:
- 30 minutes from San Francisco International Airport
- Easy drive or ride-share from downtown
- Free Presidio Go Shuttle runs between popular sites in the park
Where to Begin:
- Start at the Main Post Visitor Center
- Pick up maps, talk to Rangers, and plan your route
- Your best source for info on the Presidio is https://presidio.gov/
Joelle Machia and Ryan Slough are digital content creators, freelance travel writers, photographers, founders and publishers of Wanderers Compass Travel Blog. Wanderers Compass is rooted in immersive travel—where history, culture, and adventure intertwine to create meaningful experiences. Through curated itineraries, firsthand storytelling, and a commitment to uncovering the world’s hidden gems, Joelle and Ryan share their journeys with the hope of inspiring others to explore with purpose and curiosity.
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